The lucky cat temple, or Gotokuji Temple has been on my travel list for a long time. I finally got to visit it in early December, on a warm and sunny day and luckily, the autumn leaves were still on. This small, quiet temple in Tokyo has become more and more popular in the past few years, thanks to social media. When you visit, it’s easy to see why: thousands of lucky cat statues (called Maneki Neko, 招き猫) fill the temple.
Maneki neko
You’ve probably seen a maneki neko before, it’s that little white cat with one paw raised, often found in shop windows or restaurants. People believe it brings good luck.
The name comes from Japanese: Maneki 招き means “to invite” or “to beckon”. Neko 猫 means “cat”. So, it’s literally a “beckoning cat.” Gotokuji Temple is believed to be where the legend of the lucky cat began. One of the most well-known stories comes from the Edo Period (1603–1868). A samurai lord (daimyo) was walking near the temple when he saw a cat raising its paw, as if calling him over. He followed the cat, and then, a thunderstorm hit. The cat had led him to safety. Since then, people have visited Gotokuji to pray for good fortune, and many leave lucky cat statues as offerings.
Why is the cat waving?
In Japan, the gesture for “come here” is different from the West. Instead of waving with your palm up, Japanese people beckon with their palm facing forward and fingers pointing down, just like the maneki neko. If you look closely, you’ll see that the cat can have either paw raised, and each one has a different meaning:
- Left Paw Up: said to bring in people or customers. It’s common in businesses like shops and restaurants.
- Right Paw Up: believed to bring money or financial success.
Gotokuji village
The walk to the temple
One of the things I enjoyed most was the walk from Gotokuji Station to the temple. Even though it’s very close to Tokyo, this part of the city feels like a small village. There’s a peaceful vibe that makes you slow down.
I highly recommend taking some time to walk around the streets. You’ll also find a few cute shops and small coffee places along the way.
Setagaya Hachimangu
I also stopped at a shrine close by called Setagaya Hachimangu, a quiet shrine and a little pond filled with koi fish. The shrine is dedicated to Hachiman, a Shinto “kami” (god) linked to protection and strength. He was especially important to the samurai, who saw him as a guardian figure.
The temple was almost empty, except for one woman who came to pray. I loved the colours and the shadows in the photo I took.
Visiting Gotokuji, the lucky cat temple
The temple grounds
Gotokuji is especially beautiful in autumn. I visited in late autumn and even in early December, and the colours were still striking. Red, orange and yellow leaves line the paths, and on a clear day the warm winter sun gives the whole place a soft, calm feel.
Maneki Neko aera
Gotokuji 豪徳寺 is a beautiful Buddhist temple. It dates back to the 17th century. The maneki neko area is striking, but it is only one part of the temple, the rest of the grounds feel more calm and spacious. There is also a cemetery that reinforces the temple’s role as a place of remembrance rather more than an Instagram stop!
Some visitors also leave photos of their cats, usually as a personal offering linked to health, protection, or remembrance. Gotokuji is a working temple, not a museum. hence why the Maneki Neko are not spread across the whole temple. They are concentrated in a specific area.
Buying a Maneki Neko figurine
At the temple, you can buy a lucky cat figurine. Many people leave them at the temple to make a wish or bring good fortune. They are not souvenirs, they are offerings and small shops nearby sells them too. You can also find them in a few small shops nearby (like the one below), sometimes with an “omikuji” a small paper drawn at random with a message about luck, health or the future. Mine was hidden inside the little figurine.
How to get to Gotokuji temple
Address: 2 Chome-24-7 Gotokuji, Setagaya, Tokyo
How to get there: Take the Odakyu Line to Gotokuji Station, then walk about 10 minutes
Opening hours: Around 6am to 5pm
Entry: Free
Bonus: Ride the lucky cat train!
If you want to keep the lucky cat theme going, there’s also a “Maneki Neko Train” on the Setagaya Line. It’s a cute, cat-themed train. The ride is a bit longer and more touristy, but it’s a fun and unique experience, especially if you are traveling with kids. The train is decorated with maneki neko designs.
Beyond the rows of maneki-neko, Gotokuji is a working Zen temple with deep ties to Edo-period history, quiet, local and deliberately understated.
